1. Field of the Invention
The present invention relates to systems and methods for obtaining accurate measurements for use in drafting garment patterns. More particularly, the invention relates to system and method of using photographs and garment drawings to accurately obtain circumferences, dart angles, most of the measurements and other parameters required to draft garment patterns having good fit.
2. State of the Art
The method for drafting garment patterns has remained unchanged in over 150 years, and most likely has not changed since people started to fit clothing. While styles have changed, and the way clothes fit has changed, and body types have changed, the method for making patterns is still the same.
There are two main methods for making patterns that are in use: draping and drafting.
Draping is the art of manipulating fabric on a dress form to achieve the desired fit and style. If it is used for custom patterns, it requires a dress form that is shaped and sized the same as the individual being fit (subject). It also requires a learned skill.
Drafting, also called flat patternmaking, requires one to take many measurements of the subject using a tape measure, and then uses a formula to plot those measurements on paper to make a basic pattern called a block or sloper. The sloper is further manipulated by slashing and spreading or other methods to achieve the desired style. After that, a test garment called a muslin is sewn and fitted to the wearer. Then adjustments to the pattern are made. Depending on someone's level of skill, five or six muslins might be made before one is satisfied with the results.
Innovations in pattern drafting throughout the years generally fall into one of several categories. A first such category includes improvements of plotting measurement onto paper. The measurements are taken by another instrument such a tape measure and plotted using a new device. Examples are disclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 342,216 and U.S. Pat. No. 4,104,800. Computerized pattern drafting software falls into category because the measurements need to be input from another source.
A second category includes improvements in taking measurements. Examples are described in U.S. Pat. No. 1,101,140, U.S. Pat. No. 2,869,236 and U.S. Pat. No. 4,635,367. In addition, certain advances may comprise improvements in both the first and second categories, such as U.S. Pat. No. 6,751,877.
A third category includes improvements to target a specific fit or measurement problem. Examples are described in U.S. Pat. No. 3,964,169, U.S. Pat. No. 4,184,260 and U.S. Pat. No. 4,307,517.
A fourth category includes improvements in comparing an individual's measurements or shape with the measurements or shape of a standard body from which a pattern has already been drafted. The differences are used to adjust the ready-made pattern to fit the individual. Examples are described in U.S. Pat. No. 6,490,534 and U.S. Pat. No. 5,163,006. Both such patents teach using photographs to take some measurements, but do not teach how to make patterns. Further, the patents teach using ellipses for the circumferences of the individual's body. But this leads to inaccurate measurements, as the human body in cross-section is not elliptical in shape.
A fifth category includes three-dimensional computerized modeling of an individual's body for the purpose of making patterns. Most use the three-dimensional computerized models as if they were an actual person, and take the same measurements that have been used to draft patterns for 150 years.
While there have been numerous innovations for patternmaking throughout the years, the problem of generating a pattern tailored to fit an individual still has not been adequately solved. This is due to the inability to obtain the necessary measurements from an individual in the manner in which it has been up to now performed. The measurements used to date to draft patterns are all measurements that can be taken on the surface of an individual. Most measurements currently used to draft patterns are length, width and circumference measurements, but there is more information needed for great fit than what can be gathered with a tape measure.
Current systems do not permit the measurement of dart intake angles with a tape measure. Thus, while it is possible to measure the difference between, e.g., the bust and waist circumferences, it is not known from such measurements how much of that difference should be distributed at the front, the side or back of the pattern.
Further, the “full circumferences” cannot be measured with a tape measure. For example, a woman's hips are measured at the fullest part of her buttocks, but she may be hollow in front at that point. A tape measure cannot tell you how much to add to the hips to account for this.
In addition, it is not known from tape measurements the correct horizontal and vertical balance for a pattern. For example, when measuring vertical lengths for a bodice, it cannot be known by using a tape measure how much of that length should be distributed above the bust level and how much below. Also, a tape measure can take many circumference measurements, but how those circumferences are horizontally and vertically related to one another cannot be measured using a tape measure. However such information is essential for great fit, especially for pants.
In addition to not achieving great fit with a tape measure, the process of taking all the measurements required is difficult and time consuming. To draft a pattern, 25 to 50 measurements are required, depending on the particular drafting method used. If one is asymmetrical, then double the amount of measurements are needed. It is difficult to measure most measurements oneself such as the back and shoulder, so it usually requires a patient partner. To take accurate measurements requires carefully marking lines and points of measure and filling in hollows. Thus, measuring is a difficult, time consuming, two person process that even then does not result in the desired garment fit.
That is, the state of the art provides systems and methods in which patterns are drafted in these steps:
1) Many measurements are take against the body of the subject being fit.
2) The measurements are plotted on paper to make a basic pattern (also referred to as a sloper or block).
3) A physical or mental image of a desired garment style is obtained in the form of a sketch, photograph or idea.
4) The block is cut, slashed, spread or drawn to attempt to create a pattern for the desired style for the subject.
5) Many trial garments are made and adjusted to achieve a desired style and fit.
This existing approach is less than desirable.